New analysis by Earthsight finds the supply chains of leather suppliers to luxury fashion brand Coach are linked to illegal cattle ranching in the Amazon rainforest in Pará state, northern Brazil, where COP30 will take place in November 2025.
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Illegal cattle ranching has been the number one driver of Amazon deforestation. Pará is one of the Amazon’s leading cattle producing states and has already lost over 18 million hectares of rainforest
Undercover work, field interviews and analyses of shipment records, Brazilian official data and satellite imagery expose Coach’s links to Frigol: a Brazilian meatpacker that has purchased cattle raised in illegally deforested areas and also laundered from within the Apyterewa Indigenous Territory
Pará’s largest exporter of leather to Europe is Durlicouros, a tannery supplied by Frigol. Between 2020 and 2023, Durlicouros shipped over 14,700 tonnes of leather to Italy. Nearly a quarter was bought by two tanneries which supply Coach and several other familiar names from the world of luxury fashion
The Italian tanneries and Durlicouros are all certified by the Leather Working Group (LWG). Earthsight’s investigation highlights the certification body’s shortfalls in ensuring sustainable leather supply chains. By not requiring traceability back to ranches, it fails to account for environmental and human rights abuses happening in areas where cattle are raised
New European laws, such as the EU Deforestation Regulation and the UK Environment Act, will ban products linked to deforestation and illegalities. But these laws face heavy lobbying from some of the major culprits of these harms, including the leather industry, threatening to weaken and delay them. This new investigation underlines why European policymakers must stand firm
Given the risks exposed, the report calls on luxury goods companies to implement robust policies to ensure there is no leather from deforestation in their supply chains